Notes about gardening in Northern Virginia, the surrounding area, and gardens we visit.
October 3, 2010
Edibles and Ornamentals
Here was a happy accident: a cantaloupe sprouted along the walkway to the front door. Initially, I didn't recognize it as a cantaloupe -- it could have been a zucchini or pumpkin, for all I knew. But the large leaves offered a nice contrast to the smaller-leafed caryopteris, and the two seemed to enjoy a happy co-existence. Since they were happy, I was happy, particularly since my attempts to grow tomatoes and raspberries haven't yielded much of a harvest. Today's breakfast table included the first fruits of this accidental blending of edibles and ornamentals, a practice I plan to continue. In fact, I think I'll save some seeds for next year.
October 2, 2010
Rain at Last
4 inches of rain on Sept. 30, 2010 |
Cooler temperatures and soaking rains (including a record rainfall on September 30) have gone a long way to reviving my flagging interest and my garden's withering stems. So what now?
Here are the top 5 things I plan to do in the garden in October.
1) Plant a couple of shrubs I picked up at recent plant sales while the soil is still warm
2) Collect seeds for sowing next year
3) Clean up some beds neglected in the summer heat
4) Prune drought damaged branches -- testimony to my frugal ways with water
5) Bring in tender house plants that have summered outdoors.
What is on your list? Post a comment to share your garden plans for October.
August 15, 2010
Where *are* my naked ladies?
Okay, they are not really naked or ladies, but members of the Amaryllis family, also known as “surprise lily” or “resurrection lily.” The flower scapes (or leafless stems) emerge in late summer or early autumn after the foliage has died back and disappeared. Each stalk bears 4-7 flowers that are quite fragrant. When shopping for bulbs, look for Lycoris squamigera.
After seeing these blooming abundantly in California in late August last year, I was pleased to find them for sale at Green Spring’s Fall Garden Festival (this year’s Fall Garden Festival will be on Saturday, Oct. 2). I know I planted them somewhere (hmm ... where I don't recall) but have yet to see any trace of them. I had all but forgotten, until this group of naked ladies waved hello to me this week at Oatlands Plantation near Leesburg, Va.
Experienced gardeners advise patience; they say it may take a year or two before my naked ladies settle in and put on a similar show.
After seeing these blooming abundantly in California in late August last year, I was pleased to find them for sale at Green Spring’s Fall Garden Festival (this year’s Fall Garden Festival will be on Saturday, Oct. 2). I know I planted them somewhere (hmm ... where I don't recall) but have yet to see any trace of them. I had all but forgotten, until this group of naked ladies waved hello to me this week at Oatlands Plantation near Leesburg, Va.
Experienced gardeners advise patience; they say it may take a year or two before my naked ladies settle in and put on a similar show.
August 6, 2010
Queen of the Night
This post comes from my sister, Beth Skulas, and features a night blooming Cereus (epiphyllum oxypetalum), a member of the cactus family. It is also called Dutchman's Pipe.
A bit like Cinderella at the ball, the night blooming Cereus blooms only at night and for only one night. By morning the blossoms have wilted. Due to bad luck or bad timing, some people never see the plant in bloom.
Beth’s plant is about 15 years old, a descendant of one that our Grandmother raised and our cousin propagated. It began blooming every summer about 7 years ago, once with as many as nine blooms in a single night. The blooms are especially fragrant. Some say the center stamens depict the nativity scene, with the largest "starlike" stamen, representing the star over Bethlehem.
There are a number of videos available in which you can see the buds slowly opening. Follow this link to see one in which three flowers opening simultaneously. Enjoy and thank you, Beth.
A bit like Cinderella at the ball, the night blooming Cereus blooms only at night and for only one night. By morning the blossoms have wilted. Due to bad luck or bad timing, some people never see the plant in bloom.
Beth’s plant is about 15 years old, a descendant of one that our Grandmother raised and our cousin propagated. It began blooming every summer about 7 years ago, once with as many as nine blooms in a single night. The blooms are especially fragrant. Some say the center stamens depict the nativity scene, with the largest "starlike" stamen, representing the star over Bethlehem.
There are a number of videos available in which you can see the buds slowly opening. Follow this link to see one in which three flowers opening simultaneously. Enjoy and thank you, Beth.
July 13, 2010
Heavenly Scents
For several recent weeks, a heavenly fragrance greeted me upon leaving or entering my home. The source? A few dollars' worth of lily bulbs I planted two years ago. They return yearly, growing more robust with time.
Washington Post gardening columnist Adrian Higgins wrote about lilies in a recent column titled Summer's heat and humidity bring out the best in lilies. With today's weather forecast offering a double whammy of heat and humidity, why not stay indoors, read the article and view the slide show that accompanies it.
Lilies are best planted in fall, so now is a good time to be thinking about ordering a few. A good local source is Brent and Becky's Bulbs in Gloucester, Va. Even better news is that through the Bloomin' Bucks program, you can order from Brent and Becky's and support Green Spring Gardens at the same time. Brent and Becky's Bulbs will donate 25% of the cost of your order to the Friends of Green Spring (FROGS).
Here's all you need to do:
1. Go to www.bloominbucks.com
2. Click on the drop-down box and scroll to Friends of Green Spring Gardens
3. Click GO
4. Click Yes accept the terms and continue to shop.
Washington Post gardening columnist Adrian Higgins wrote about lilies in a recent column titled Summer's heat and humidity bring out the best in lilies. With today's weather forecast offering a double whammy of heat and humidity, why not stay indoors, read the article and view the slide show that accompanies it.
Lilies are best planted in fall, so now is a good time to be thinking about ordering a few. A good local source is Brent and Becky's Bulbs in Gloucester, Va. Even better news is that through the Bloomin' Bucks program, you can order from Brent and Becky's and support Green Spring Gardens at the same time. Brent and Becky's Bulbs will donate 25% of the cost of your order to the Friends of Green Spring (FROGS).
Here's all you need to do:
1. Go to www.bloominbucks.com
2. Click on the drop-down box and scroll to Friends of Green Spring Gardens
3. Click GO
4. Click Yes accept the terms and continue to shop.
July 12, 2010
Japanese Beetles are Back!
By Diane Hampel, a master gardener in Fairfax County who writes a monthly column, The Laurel Hill Gardener, for her community association's monthly newsletter. This article appeared in the July 2010 newsletter.
Yesterday while I was out on a neighborhood watch patrol with my neighbor she told me she had seen her first Japanese beetle. While I have not seen any in my garden yet, I know that by the time you are reading this article we will be inundated with them.
This garden pest is the one I hate the most and causes me the most problems. My garden is full of the plants they love to feed on.
I will not go into a lot of detail here because most of the information I want to relay to you is discussed in the Virginia Cooperative Extension Publication on Japanese Beetles. Please take some time to read and study this publication to learn about the life cycle of this insect. The beetles start as grubs that eat the roots of your turf grass and vegetable plants in the garden, so if we can reduce the number of grubs in the soil, we will reduce the number of Japanese beetles feeding on our trees, shrubs and garden plants throughout the community.
Late July or early August is the best time to apply chemical controls for grubs. This is when the grubs are small and easily killed. Applying controls at other times of the year is not as effective. If you want to apply a natural or organic product rather than a chemical control, I would recommend applying milky spore. It is available in two forms. The powder form is a one-time application and applied in a checkerboard pattern on your lawn and then watered in. You can purchase a special applicator for applying the powder. The second type is a granular form and is easily applied with your fertilizer spreader. Granules must be applied three times throughout the summer for two years. The application of milky spore has a higher initial cost than the chemical application, but over time is the least expensive approach. If many of us in the community apply this product we should see a reduction of the beetles after a few years. This one or two time application of milky spore can control beetles for 10-15 years or more.
Once the beetles arrive, the best way to control them is to hand pick them and toss them into a bucket of soapy water, which should kill them immediately. This is hard to do though, if you have 50 million of them in your yard like I have had the past few years! DO NOT put one of the Japanese beetle traps up in your yard! Research has shown that this will only attract more beetles to your yard.
I am testing neem oil for controlling the beetles this year. I have applied neem oil to the plants in my garden that I know will attract the beetles. This includes all of my ferns, astilbe, hibiscus, clematis and cannas. I plan to spray at 7-10 day intervals over the next 5 or 6 weeks when the beetles are actively feeding. Neem oil is a natural insect repellant and pesticide made from the bark, leaves and oil from the neem tree, which grows in India. I have read that if you can control the beetles early in the season, less will flock to your yard. I’ll report in the next newsletter what kind of success I have this year with this product. I am also willing to pay any neighborhood kids who would like to hand-pick the beetles from my plants each week! The only criteria I ask is that they are not squeamish about bugs!
Whether you decide to use chemical or natural sprays on your plants, always remember to READ THE LABEL before applying, and only apply in early morning or in the evening when bees are not actively pollinating plants. Also do not apply in windy conditions.
Please feel free to contact me if you need further information about Japanese beetle control or other gardening questions. You can reach me at bandhampel@gmail.com.
Yesterday while I was out on a neighborhood watch patrol with my neighbor she told me she had seen her first Japanese beetle. While I have not seen any in my garden yet, I know that by the time you are reading this article we will be inundated with them.
This garden pest is the one I hate the most and causes me the most problems. My garden is full of the plants they love to feed on.
I will not go into a lot of detail here because most of the information I want to relay to you is discussed in the Virginia Cooperative Extension Publication on Japanese Beetles. Please take some time to read and study this publication to learn about the life cycle of this insect. The beetles start as grubs that eat the roots of your turf grass and vegetable plants in the garden, so if we can reduce the number of grubs in the soil, we will reduce the number of Japanese beetles feeding on our trees, shrubs and garden plants throughout the community.
Late July or early August is the best time to apply chemical controls for grubs. This is when the grubs are small and easily killed. Applying controls at other times of the year is not as effective. If you want to apply a natural or organic product rather than a chemical control, I would recommend applying milky spore. It is available in two forms. The powder form is a one-time application and applied in a checkerboard pattern on your lawn and then watered in. You can purchase a special applicator for applying the powder. The second type is a granular form and is easily applied with your fertilizer spreader. Granules must be applied three times throughout the summer for two years. The application of milky spore has a higher initial cost than the chemical application, but over time is the least expensive approach. If many of us in the community apply this product we should see a reduction of the beetles after a few years. This one or two time application of milky spore can control beetles for 10-15 years or more.
Once the beetles arrive, the best way to control them is to hand pick them and toss them into a bucket of soapy water, which should kill them immediately. This is hard to do though, if you have 50 million of them in your yard like I have had the past few years! DO NOT put one of the Japanese beetle traps up in your yard! Research has shown that this will only attract more beetles to your yard.
I am testing neem oil for controlling the beetles this year. I have applied neem oil to the plants in my garden that I know will attract the beetles. This includes all of my ferns, astilbe, hibiscus, clematis and cannas. I plan to spray at 7-10 day intervals over the next 5 or 6 weeks when the beetles are actively feeding. Neem oil is a natural insect repellant and pesticide made from the bark, leaves and oil from the neem tree, which grows in India. I have read that if you can control the beetles early in the season, less will flock to your yard. I’ll report in the next newsletter what kind of success I have this year with this product. I am also willing to pay any neighborhood kids who would like to hand-pick the beetles from my plants each week! The only criteria I ask is that they are not squeamish about bugs!
Whether you decide to use chemical or natural sprays on your plants, always remember to READ THE LABEL before applying, and only apply in early morning or in the evening when bees are not actively pollinating plants. Also do not apply in windy conditions.
Please feel free to contact me if you need further information about Japanese beetle control or other gardening questions. You can reach me at bandhampel@gmail.com.
May 27, 2010
Memories of Cape Cod
Years ago, while staying at the Wequassett Inn on Cape Cod, I fell in love with a rose named "New Dawn." While our climate in Northern Virginia is a far cry from that of Cape Cod, I put this rose in my garden as a way of remembering the magic of the Cape and New England gardens. Fortunately, it has not let me down, with this year's bloom being especially spectacular.
I'm not a serious rosarian, but have learned a few tricks. Number one is that New Dawn does NOT like the usual late winter pruning recommended for most roses. Instead, I prune rampant growth at the end of the growing season. Now if I could just figure out how to get it to rebloom, as some books suggest it should. Your comments and suggestions welcome!
May 23, 2010
A New Border Leads to the Front Door
In Fall 2009, the flagstone walkway leading to the front door was renovated. The stones were lifted and a new subsurface of stone dust was put down to raise the sidewalk to prevent water from pooling on it. A border of creeping phlox and blue rug junipers was removed.
In Spring 2010, a new mixed border was planted. The idea is to create spring and fall interest playing off the yellow-green of the Caryopteris and Sedums and the purples and burgundies of the Nepeta (catmint), Salvia, and Heuchera (coral bells). Also included is an Amsonia (blue star) and a yellow Baptisia .
Here is the before and after.
In Spring 2010, a new mixed border was planted. The idea is to create spring and fall interest playing off the yellow-green of the Caryopteris and Sedums and the purples and burgundies of the Nepeta (catmint), Salvia, and Heuchera (coral bells). Also included is an Amsonia (blue star) and a yellow Baptisia .
Here is the before and after.
May 22, 2010
Hard Pruning a Knock Out Rose
After several years, this Knock Out rose had seriously outgrown its space and was making it difficult to get in and out of the car when parking next to it. The solution was a dramatic pruning in late winter and here are the results.
Before pruning - a tangled mess
After Pruning - March 7, 2010 after the February snows melted.
Full bloom in progress on May 22. I expect they will bloom continuously until November. Knock Out has proven to be drought tolerant,untroubled by pests and diseases, and able to withstand my attention!
Before pruning - a tangled mess
After Pruning - March 7, 2010 after the February snows melted.
Full bloom in progress on May 22. I expect they will bloom continuously until November. Knock Out has proven to be drought tolerant,untroubled by pests and diseases, and able to withstand my attention!
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